Remember the adage “Don’t judge a book by its cover”? Keep it in mind when you come here. You may have to wave cigarette smoke away from your face as you cross the patio, and you might even have to dodge a growling, leashless pit bull to get in the door. But once inside the drab, shoeboxlike bar, you’ll find a surprisingly sophisticated menu, with items such as fresh-pulled mozzarella with heirloom tomatoes, and brie, honey and fig pizza. I’m happy to ignore grumpy canines and secondhand smoke to indulge in The Golden Bear’s delicious tacos, stuffed with slow-simmered chicken and drizzled with a frisky pasilla crema.